STEPS 1-10

Southern Railway's EMD SD45  Pictorial 
Road Number Index (not yet linked)

SCANS ONLY

See Andy Harman's GP30.com site for related SD45 project summaries

Last Updated   13 Nov 2008

While referring to the scan below, remove the entire brake housing and file smooth.

Below is the first step in building the SOU SD-45. I sincerely hope you enjoy what you see and find this project helpful in building your model. 

If you see an asterisk (*) beside a step number during this project, it simply means that this step is not absolutely necessary and that the factory model details/parts will suffice.

I have been asked, for the benefit of many, to show the tools used in removing the brake housing from the Kato shell. Please refer to the embedded scan and see the drill with a # 68 bit which was used to drill started holes in the perimeter of the brake housing. 

Next we use a NEW # 11 A-XACTO blade to connect the holes and get as close to the housing edges as possible. Finally, we use a small jewelers file to completely remove any evidence of the plastic housing. 

As with the tools of any trade, please use common sense and caution when using sharp blades, knives, adhesives and rotating drill bits. While we think of modeling trains as a safe hobby, accidents can happen and serious injuries may occur if we're not careful.

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1

Step 1

Tools Used 
for Step 1

Step 02* 

Using a Dremel tool and bit, very carefully remove the three radiator grills. Notice on the scan that we remove the plastic up to the flange ring and no more. Please work carefully and slowly so as not to damage the plastic outside of this ring. Note: I will scan the tools that were used to remove these fans in the next step. 

Please refer to the scan below as reference to this step. I remind you again that when you see the asterisk (*) beside the step number, this is a sign that this step is not necessary for you to have a nice model, but the work involved will make a marked improvement in the prototypical appearance of your model.

The pin vise with the sharp needle is used to make a starter hole for the larger #68 drill bit. Never try to drill a hole on a smooth surface or small detail part without first making a starter hole for the larger bit to be used. Next, drill a #68 or similar size hole as a guide for the cutter bit in the Dremel tool.

Set the Dremel at a medium speed and beginning in the middle of the fan to be removed, ease the cutter bit into the plastic and remove the unwanted plastic. As you draw closer to the edges of the fan, within a couple of rings, remove the cutter bit and begin using the larger emery wheel to draw closer to the finished edges.

The small emery wheel is used as the final sander since it is smaller and easier to control. Do not remove more plastic than absolutely necessary as shown in the next step.

Step 02A

This scan shows the Kato fans having been removed. Note that the outer flange ring is still in place and this is where the new Cannon fan base will sit. PLEASE work slowly and deliberately so that you do not damage the plastic that is to be left in place.

Step 02B* 

Remove the D/B fans using the same directions you did when you removed the radiator fans in step 02A. Refer to the scan below.

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Step 2

Step 2A

Step 2B

Tools Used
for Step 2

Drill a series of #65 hiles as shown in the scan below and connect the holes with a sharp #11 X-ACTO blade. Remove both the turbo exhaust and the inertial filter hatch.

Step 3

Remove the Kato cab guide and light support as shown in the scans below.

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Step 4

Step 4A

Cut three (3) blocks .040 X 5'6" (scale feet) and insert into the SD45 shell at the points shown in the scan.

Tack glue into place only as these blocks will be removed when the shell is glued to the walkway. Cut one (1) .040 X 5'3" block (scale feet) and tack glue into place as shown.  (The reason for this change in block width is to take into account the extra thickness of the Kato shell at this point) 

Step 06* 

Remove the Kato sub-base guides from the walkway and sand smooth.

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Step 5

Step 6

Please refer to the scans below for these steps. Drill a series of #68 holes around the perimeter of the inertial filter screens and then connect them using a new #11 X-ACTO blade. Remove the remaining Kato details and sand smooth.

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Step 7

Step 7A

Cut two sections of styrene 6" thick x 8" wide x 50" long, all HO scale inches and glue them into place.  The 8" side goes down and is the side to be glued to the shell.  Next, cut two sections of this plastic and fill in the top and bottom to form the box for the wheel housing. 

Step 08A* 

Cut a piece of .015 sheet plastic and cover the rear of the newly formed brake wheel housing. Cement in place. 

Step 08B/C* 

Form the brake wheel support by cutting a piece of 4' x 12' x 24 scale inches long. Round the top as shown in the scan. Add the .010 x .030 cap and cement in place. Allow to dry completely. 

Next, cut two pieces of .010 x .100 x 27 scale inches long. Cut each piece from corner to corner to form a triangle brace. Cement these braces in place beside the wheel support. Cut three short pieces of Tichy plastic chain and cement into place as shown. Drill a #76 hole in the wheel support and add the Cannon brake wheel.

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Step 8

Step 8A

Step 8B

Step 8C

Following the instructions printed on the back of the Cannon step package, carefully remove the kit steps as shown. These instructions say to remove the molded on kick plate, but I choose deviate here and leave this section of the steps in place and I do so mainly for strength of the pilot and step areas. The Cannon steps will sit correctly if you do decide to leave the kick plates in place so the choice is left up to you. CAUTION!! The Cannon steps include fold lines on the back side of each step. Be sure you use pliers that have a straight section long enough to hold the longest fold line on each step or it is possible the step edges will not bend at the correct position and become crooked when bent. 

Step 09A* 

Using a short piece of .012 brass wire, apply Cyanopoxy to both sides of the removed step and carefully install the steps making sure each step sits against the kick plate and also sits flat across the step supports. *** Also note in the instructions that you can install the brass steps over the existing steps.

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Step 9

Step 9A

Following the instructions found on the Cannon cab kit, assemble the cab. Please remember to drill the holes for the windshield wipers so you don't have to do them after the cab is assembled. Following the instructions found on the sub-base kit, assemble the two sub-base sides and allow to dry. 

Step 10A* 

Assemble the completed cab and sub-base being careful not to mix the two sub-base sides. Set assembly aside and allow to dry completely.

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Step 10

Step 10A

Reference Shot 10A-1