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STEPS 21-30 

Southern Railway's EMD SD45  Pictorial 
Road Number Index (not yet linked)

SCANS ONLY

See Andy Harman's GP30.com site for related SD45 project summaries

Last Updated
  Thursday, November 13, 2008 11:12:51 PM

Following the Cannon instructions, build the electrical cabinet filter box and install in place. Allow to dry completely.

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Step 21

Step 22) 

Cut a short, 1/4", section of .030 x .125 styrene strip and glue to the bottom of the Kato shell as shown in the first scan. 

Step 22A) 

When completely dry, drill the correct size hole and mount the DW walkway light in the position shown in the second scan (22A).

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Step 22

Step 22A

Step 23) 

Remove the motor and both truck assemblies from the frame. Using a milling machine or a Dremel tool, remove a section of the frame, .037" long x .165" deep, beginning at the very rear end of the fuel tank and proceeding toward the short hood end. File smooth. *** Please use proper eye wear while proceeding with this step!!! 

Step 23A)

Cut a section of .030 x .125 styrene and cyanopoxy in the slot you just opened on the frame. Allow to dry. 

Step 23B)

Using the DW air filter AF-154, remove the mounting pin located on the rear of this part and file smooth. Next, file the top of the filter flat, removing just enough metal so that the top of the filter is flat. Drill the hole in the filter for the air piping using a # 77 drill bit. Next, reinstall the motor, trucks, fuel tank and position the shell on the chassis. Now mount the filter on the styrene strip making sure it is as close to the tank as possible without touching the tank. The top of the filter should rest under the shell walkway and the bottom arm support on the filter should be level with the bottom of the styrene strip. Now, install the filter using cyanopoxy and allow to dry. 

When completely dry, drill into the air pipe, through the filter and into the plastic strip. We will add a .016 pipe later and this will help support the filter to the frame. 

NOTE** Only units 3105 thru 3121 used this type air filter. The other units, 3122-3169 and 3100-3104 used the style found in the DW kit # AF-139. Follow the instructions found in this kit as they will be different from the one we used on this model.

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Step 22A

Step 22A

Step 22A

Remove cast on jacking pads and replace with the Cannon jacking pads. Next, install the Hi-Tech window shades and allow to dry.

Step 24

Step 25) 

Using your favorite brand of model RR paints, paint the front number boards white ( if you are modeling a RC slave master ) and then paint the entire locomotive black. Insert the white number boards in place when completely dry. If you are modeling a non RC unit, install the number boards and paint the entire unit black. I prefer to paint Glaze on my models before I decal them, but this step is left up to you. The model should now be ready for decaling.

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Step 25

Carefully remove the cast on detail parts from the Kato fuel tank and file smooth. Drill the proper size holes for the air piping, fuel filler and overflow pipes. Fill the fuel gauge found on the Kato tank, allow to dry completely and sand smooth. 

Join the two tank sides and glue them together. Allow to dry. Trace the two ends on a sheet of .010 styrene and cut to fit. Carefully cement the new ends to the tank using Cyanopoxy and allow to dry. 

Next, sand the new end plates to the correct shape. Now, add the fuel fillers, air piping, fuel gauges and other details to the tank. Caution: use extreme care when fitting the tank to the chassis as the tank will now be a tight fit and it's possible for the tank clips to break if you're not careful. 

I suggest that you do not clip the tank into place until it's been painted and ready for permanent positioning. Paint the tank your favorite shade of black and allow to dry.

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Step 26

Step 26A

Apply the Microscale Imitation Aluminum stripe and the word SOUTHERN in their proper locations.  The stripes are all full height, just as they come off the MS sheet. The only trimming I did was to remove the clear covering at the bottom of the stripe on the long hood of the engineer's side so that it would sit directly on the walkway.

Step 27A) 

Apply the ShellScale # 103 white number boards in their proper places. Allow these decals to dry completely before adding others.

Step 27B,C,D) 

To the right, you'll find shots of the cab decals, short hood decals and the walkway stripes found on the engineer's side, long hood. 

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Step 27

Step 27A

Step 27B

Step 27C

Step 27D

Remove the four side frames from their trucks. Drill each brake cylinder with a #78 drill bit. This will be for the brass wire brake lines which will replace the plastic lines provided on the Kato model. Install the brake cylinders on each side frame and glue in place. 

Bend four (4) .012 brass brake lines and install between the brake cylinders on each side frame. Glue in place and allow to dry. Next, on the inside end of each side frame only, drill the proper size hole and install .020 sanding lines. (I added these sanding lines on the inside ends only because of clearance problems on the outer ends.)

Choose one side frame and add the speed recorder as shown in the scan. Secure the recorder line with a single lift ring installed on the side of the side frame. Paint the four side frames with your favorite shade and brand of black paint. Allow to dry completely and reinstall on their trucks.

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Step 28

Install the tank making sure that the sanding lines on the side frames do not touch any part of the tank. NOTE: I broke two of the delrin mounting pins on my tank when I tried to install it so I added some Cyanopoxy around the edges where the broken pins were located. This should prevent the tank from coming loose from the frame.

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Step 29

Install the Cannon blades and fan guards. Install the class lights. Paint the step edges yellow and all to dry.  

Step 30