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STEPS 31-33
Final Page 

Southern Railway's EMD SD45  Pictorial 
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See Andy Harman's GP30.com site for related SD45 project summaries

Last Updated
  Thursday, November 13, 2008 11:12:41 PM

Step 31) Paint the Cannon window frames with your favorite brand of aluminum paint and allow to dry.  Next, install the windows into the frames and then place into the position desired in the cab sides. Glue the frames in place and allow to dry.

Add the other cab windows and allow to dry.  I do all of my flat coating before I add any window glass so none of it gets on the windows, but I add the weathering with the windows in place. I try to keep the spray off the windows, but there are times when some weathering will get on the window glass. If this happens, just use a Q-tip dipped in Solvaset and very carefully remove the paint that gets on the windows.

NOTE: I have found that Microscale Micro Kristal Klear thinned with water works very well to install the windows in the Cannon cab. It is strong and turns from white to a clear, unnoticeable color when dry.
Install the wind deflectors and windshield wipers in their proper places using Cyanopoxy.
Install the OMI mu stand using Cyanopoxy and allow to dry.

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Step 31

Step 32) 

Carefully remove each stanchion from the Kato handrail sets. Do not remove the two stanchions that are on each side of the drop step as these will be used as anchors for the front and rear pilot handrails. 

NOTE: As you cut each stanchion from it's handrail, be sure to make note of where each stanchion is located on the handrail set. This will be important when they are installed on the model. 

Next, using a sharp needle, make a center mark in the middle of each stanchion where the new handrail will pass thru. Now, drill each stanchion with a # 80 drill bit and then with a # 78 bit. Do your best to keep each hole straight, front to back and top to bottom. The handrails enter the cab at 36 1/2" above the bottom of the cab and 3" from the outer walls. Carefully mark these measurements on your cab and drill first using a # 80 bit and then a # 78 bit. 

Step 32a) 

Using photos, make the appropriate bends to the .015 brass wire. I usually begin first on the long hood, engineer's side because it's the most difficult one to bend because of the extra bend found at the step on the long hood end. Make the bends at the front pilot and then slide the front four stanchions in place. Next, make the bend at the step and then slide the remaining stanchions in place. Now, make the bends at the cab. I prefer to bend the two long hood railing first and then do the two behind the cab. 

Step 32b) 

Lay the two front handrail sets flat on the table and using a sharp #11 blade, remove the kit mu receptacle. Remove the two outer stanchions, but do not remove the two that are attached to the drop step. Now, after drilling the four stanchions attached to the drop steps, glue the drop steps into place using Cyanopoxy or your favorite ACC adhesive. Allow to dry completely. Next, bend the four corner handrails and slide into position. 

After all of the handrails are in place, make sure all of your stanchions are at a 90 degree position. Next, using a short section of .012 brass wire, apply a small drop of Cyanopoxy to each stanchion where the brass wire passes thru. Allow to dry completely before moving the model. Bending the new handrails is actually easier to do than it appears and it would be a lot easier for me to show you how in person than it is to tell you how it's done. I suggest that you try it at least once and if you have any questions, please post your question to the list so anyone with the same problem will be able to see your question.

Steps 32c & 32d) 

After you have bent and installed each of the handrails, I suggest you prime them with Modelflex Primer Gray. This paint adheres to brass very well and makes a good foundation for the black and yellow colors. Next, paint the black and yellow colors as shown. Allow to dry before handling the model.

Step 33, 33a, 33b) 

Install the following details to your model: headlights....I used #25 MV lens as headlights on both ends. mu hoses and air hoses....I decided to use the DW 265 mu hoses and DW 268 air hoses rather than use the kit supplied hoses. The Kato hoses are ok, but they lost out to the DW parts today. coupler lift bars.....install in place and paint black. # 58 Kadee couplers These should be the last of the details we'll add to this model. If you think I missed a part, please let me know and I'll review it. 

Weathering: This is a subject where everyone has his or her own opinion as to how they want their model to appear when completed and I offer my version only as a guide for those new to weathering. The truck sideframes, pilots, fuel tank and grills were sprayed with Floquil Rail Brown, thinned approx. 75%. Floquil Engine Black, thinned 25%, was sprayed around the exhaust hatch and on the back side of the first DB fan guard. Floquil White, thinned 90% was sprayed on the dust bin. 

After these colors were dry, a coat of Scalecoat I Flat, thinned 75%, was sprayed over the weathering colors and allowed to dry. 

This concludes the Southern SD-45 project. I can only hope that you have enjoyed following along with this project as much as I have presenting it to you. If you have any questions or want to see more photos of the completed model, please contact me and I'll be more than happy to assist you with your request

Step 32

Step 32a

Step 32b

Step 32c

Step 32d

Step 33

Step 33a

Step 33b